Garden water features in the spotlight for summer in Lymington 

Article by Debby Lockey, Lymington Garden Designer

(And Agapanthus by Fairweather's Garden Centre Beaulieu - the Agapanthus loves our Lymington climate.) 

During hot summers a water feature in the garden comes into its own as it helps to cool the atmosphere of a garden.

However, in our temperate climate it is not often that we appreciate this aspect of a water feature. Instead we want water in the garden for lots of other reasons: beauty, relaxation, to attract wildlife or to show off our wealth.  Throughout history, water has been used in gardens for all these reasons, plus more.

Water features in ancient gardens (300BC – 800AD)

The need to have water in the garden must be intrinsic in our nature as the earliest records of gardens show they had water features.  A model found in the tomb of Meketre, who was chancellor to King Mentuhotep II of Egypt shows a walled garden with a fish pond shaded by a fig tree.  The pool is geometric with water flowing into the pond from pipes.

The use of water in these ancient gardens had both a symbolic and practical purpose. The forced formality of the garden and pond reflected the power of these people and how they were able to control and impose man-made order on an unruly nature. To make a garden bloom in the desert and have extra water, the source of life, running in rills and pools gave the kings a god- like status, and many kings held court in their gardens expressly to show off their power.

In Roman gardens these water features became grander, to reflect their wealth and status.  Canals, fishponds and fountains were usually present.   In contrast Islamic cultures used their gardens to symbolise heavenly paradise in a barren dessert.  These gardens usually had a central fountain that represented the giving and sustaining of life, while the movement and energy necessary in creating the fountain symbolised life’s dynamism. 

On a more practical level, the water could be used to cleanse the body, and irrigate the plants.  In addition, the gentle splashing sound of a fountain would have added to the tranquillity of the garden and helped to mask any noises.

Medieval Gardens (800-1500)

With the fall of the Roman Empire around 800 AD the attitude to gardens changed from viewing them as a place of beauty and sophistication, to seeing them as a place to hide away from nature, because nature had become the frightening enemy. 

Christianity become the dominant force in Europe and gardens became places to provide food for the community, which reflected the Christian ideal of self-sufficiency.   Plus the work required to maintain the garden was seen as a form of worship dedicated to the glory of God. 

Water in the garden was still symbolic.   To Medieval Christians the 3 states of water: the bubbling source of water; the moving, falling state of water; and the still pool represented the three parts of the trinity.  The pools of water also had the added bonus of being stocked with fish and wildfowl which could be eaten.

If you are interested in Medieval gardens there is a very attractive Tudor Garden at The Tudor House, Bugle Street, Southampton.   There is also a re-creation of a medieval herber in Queen Elenor's garden beside the Great Hall in Winchester.

The Renaissance Period (1500-1660)

With the Renaissance Period we see a change towards gardens being a place to relax and cultivate the mind.  In Italy in particular there was a shift away from fortified houses with battlements towards the ‘loggia’ style garden where three sides of the garden were enclosed by buildings but one side had beautiful views.  Water played a crucial role in these gardens. 

When Donato Bramente was commissioned to design Belvedere Court at the Vatican for Pope Julius II in 1509 we see the beginning of sculptures being used in pools. From then on gardens in Renaissance Italy became more ostentatious.  Water was used to great effect with fountains and waterfalls cascading throughout the gardens.  At the villa d’Este at Tivoli water cascaded down the terraces to create large waterfalls. 100 fountains were present as well as water stairs, pools and canals.  In the Boboli gardens in Florence hydraulic engineering changed the gardens from accepted geometric style to one of fantasy with courtyards being turned into seas and secret fountains occurring.

The Formal Period (1660-1714)

In France, these elaborate renaissance gardens were not so popular.   The flat landscape around Paris was not conducive to terracing, steps etc.  Plus the French conservative hunter – soldier attitude meant they preferred more extensive masculine gardens.  Here order, symmetry and grand scale reflected the military presence needed to design and construct these gardens.  These formal gardens also symbolised the King’s need to rule and control this one united country.

This manipulation of nature was expressed through the water features built at this time.  At Versailles a special machine was built to move the water up from the Seine to create the magnificent lakes at Versailles.

Large flat lakes became popular as they created a feeling of vastness, as it was difficult to know where the water ended and the sky began.  At Vaux le Vicomte, a garden built for Fouquet by Le Notre, Le Notre used fountains, statues and optical illusions to give a false perspective which gave the garden a feeling of infinity.

Early Landscape Movement (1714 – 1830)

As it became apparent how expensive it was to run these formal gardens, and the mood shifted towards wanting to create the sensations of happiness, tranquillity, grandeur, melancholy, awe and wonder within the garden, so the style of gardens changed from trying to dominate nature to wanting to replicate it.  Now water features began to copy nature, so meandering streams or pools of water with cascades and waterfalls became popular.

It was during this time that Capability Brown began to influence the style of gardening.  He widened rivers, created lakes and moved earth to produce hills.

The Victorian Period (1830-1901)

This was a time when new and exotic plants were arriving in Britain and people wanted to show them off in their gardens.  They also wanted to show off their skill at being able to grow them.  So plants took centre stage in the garden.  Water was not so important but ‘American Gardens’ became very popular.  These gardens were basically bog gardens composed of bog loving plants imported from eastern America.

20^th and early 21^st Century

There was a backlash against bedding plants and all things Victorian, and once again gardeners looked to nature for inspiration.  Climbers should be allowed to ramble through trees, bulbs should be massed in grass and water and rock should look natural.  This was also the time when one third of the housing stock was built and most of these had private gardens.  Gardening was therefore no longer a pasttime for upper classes or wealthier middle classes.  Unfortunately, the war came along and most gardens were given over to growing food.

After the war many more houses were built.  Now the move was towards incorporating the existing landscape of the area into the estate.   Fewer trees were cut down and wild gardening became popular to contrast with the invasive urban sprawl.  The move towards organic gardens also became more popular as the effect of chemicals on the environment became known.  Natural ponds became very important as a way of attracting those animals needed to keep predators, such as slugs, at bay.  

As more people became involved in gardening water features reflected the smaller family gardens.  Reservoir-based features have become very popular as they don’t present a danger to children, but they do still provide the joy that moving water has given throughout the ages.  Plus they add to the calm and tranquillity of the garden and help to mask the noises of the city, some of the very reasons that inspired the Egyptians to have water in their ancient gardens.

So we can see that throughout history, water has been popular in gardens.  It has never gone out of fashion, its presence has just changed to suit the culture and fashion of the time. 

As a garden designer a water feature is something I always recommend to my clients as I feel it adds that extra special something to the atmosphere of the garden.

Article by Debby Lockey, Lymington Garden Designer

It's a good year for the roses!

Tips from the experts on how to treat black spot...

I recently went to the Gardeners’ World exhibition in Birmingham.  It was less slick than Chelsea, with fewer gardens to look at, but the plant stalls were manned by experts happy to give advice; there were talks by Alan Tichmarsh and Carol Klein to name just two, and there weren’t masses of people so you could mooch about quite happily and not feel you were holding people up. So all in all it was a very relaxing day.  I’d recommend it to anyone who doesn’t like throngs of people but enjoys gardening.

Because the atmosphere was so relaxed I was able to talk to the plant specialists manning their stalls. Like most people involved in horticulture they were happy to pass on their expertise, and inevitably at the rose stand we ended up chatting about that all prevailing problem of black spot.

What does black spot look like?

In case you don’t know what black spot is, it is easy to identify.

It first makes its appearance in spring, and as the name suggests, it manifests itself as black spots with fringed edges.  These initially develop on the upper side of the leaves.  The leaves can then turn yellow and may eventually drop off.  There can also be raised reddish purple spots or black lesions on the young stems of the roses.  Initially the lower leaves of the plant are affected, but it can spread up the plant and lead to the defoliation and eventual weakening or death of the plant. 

What causes black spot?

It is caused by a fungus, Diplocarpon rosae.  This fungus produces spores during wet conditions.    Apparently the spores need 7 hours continuous rain with temperatures of 24 degrees Celsius for the spores to sprout. So this spring the warm, moist, humid conditions have been ideal for the fungus to get the upper hand. 

The spread of black spot

The spores are spread by the wind, rain droplets, or rain splash. They can also be carried on hands, clothing or tools.   And unfortunately for us, this fungus is very quick at mutating, and therefore producing new strains.   This means that any new roses that have been bred to withstand black spot will eventually succumb to it, as they will not be resistant to the new strains that develop.

So what can we do?

The organic approach to controlling black spot

For those of us who don’t like using chemicals it is worth looking at the life cycle of this fungus.  During the winter the spores rest on the leaves of the roses, plus the young stems and buds.  Therefore, it is important to remove all infected leaves. 

What to do in spring

Cut any infected leaves off as soon as they appear in spring and collect any infected leaves that fall on the ground.  I burn them rather than put them in the compost where they can easily re-infect the soil.  Also in spring prune out any young infected stems and again burn.  As the spores are so ubiquitous it is probably not worth disinfecting your secateurs each time you do this job as this alone is not going to stop the spread of the disease. 

Because the spores need damp weather to mature, it is also worth pruning out the central shoots of the bushes to allow the air to circulate around the plant and so dry the surrounding atmosphere.  For the same reason, don’t plant roses too close together, and choose a nice sunny, well drained site.

If you do want to use an organic spray, begin in spring when the black spot first appears.  Once the spores get established it takes 3 -10 days for the spots to appear.  From then on spores are produced every 3 weeks.  It is therefore important to spray regularly. 

Organic sprays

Sulphur has often been used as a way of reducing fungal problems on plants, and it is known to be honey bee safe.  Just make sure you don’t inhale the dust or fumes.   Plus it has to be reapplied after rain as it is easily washed away.

Baking Soda and vinegar changes the pH of the fungus and so kills it. You can make up a mixture of:

• 1 ½ tbs baking soda
• 2tbs veg oil
• 1 ½ tbs liquid soap
• 1tbs vinegar added to a gallon of water.  Spray the leaves every 6-7 days.

Milk and water also changes the fungus pH.  Use 1 part milk to 2 parts water and spray weekly.

Neem oil is supposed to prevent the formation of spores, but be careful not to spray leaves that are exposed to the midday sun as it can burn the leaves.

During the summer

Keep feeding the roses so they have the strength to fight the disease.  And be careful if you need to water your roses.  Because we want to avoid a damp atmosphere around the plant, apply the water to the soil, not the leaves.  And water in the morning so the plants have all day to dry. 

In autumn

Pick up and burn any infected leaves and then mulch the plant with manure. This is in the hope that any rain that splashes back onto the new spring growth will not be infected with the spores present in the soil.

I have been following this regime in one of my clients’ gardens where their small climber is prone to black spot.  So far after 16 years it is still surviving.  

Non organic methods of controlling black spot.

Which Magazine did a survey on best chemicals to use to fight black spot.  Their results showed that any product with the active ingredient Myclobutanil or Triticonazole didn’t stop the disease, but it did help to slow down its advances and so kept the rose looking healthy.

These are both fungicides and, as we discussed, black spot is good at mutating.   It is therefore advisable to alternate these products, otherwise the spores build up a resistance to them.  You could also alternate with the protectant Mancozeb to prevent this resistance.

If you are worried about honey bees don’t use any sprays that also have the pesticide Cyerinethrin in them.

So good luck in the fight against black spot.  I know I will keep fighting because for me the scent of roses is a must in my garden.  I have an arch which is surrounded with Rosa Zephirine Drouhin.  This is a climbing bourbon rose which as well as being thornless has the most beautiful scent imaginable.  Unfortunately, it is also a magnet for black spot.  But without them and the other roses in the garden, my enjoyment of the garden would be diminished.  Naturally I would like to win this fight, but as with all things with nature, I’ll just have to come to a compromise.  

Debby Lockey

Debby Lockey Garden Design

How to create a contemporary cottage garden

Hints and tips by Debby Lockey Garden Design

I am in the process of designing a small courtyard garden in Lymington.  The client would like a classic cottage garden with a contemporary twist.  These few simple steps will show you how this can be achieved.

Minimalist and uncluttered

Contemporary gardens are usually quite minimalist and uncluttered. This seems to be at odds with a cottage garden, where the look is more relaxed and plant orientated. To marry these two concepts, we are going to get the uncluttered look by using very simple geometric shapes in the garden.  In this case squares and oblongs rather than circles. In the areas of the garden where drainage is poor these will be produced by building raised beds made of wood.  In the rest of the garden, box hedging will define the shapes. 

Cottage garden planting

Within these defined beds there will be the classic cottage garden plants such as roses, honeysuckle, carnations and other scented plants. Their colour will be muted, to keep the cottage garden theme, and they will be positioned near seated areas so they can be enjoyed whenever there is an opportunity to sit and relax in the garden.

The client also wants to grow some vegetables in the raised beds, so again to achieve the cottage garden look, they will be interspersed amongst the flowers rather than grown in rows. 

The courtyard is surrounded by fencing, which gives it privacy and shelter. Normally in a cottage garden these fences would be swathed in climbers that would be allowed to romp away and do their own thing. But because the courtyard is small, such climbers could quickly become an eyesore and dominate the area. So instead we will attach trellis to the fencing, and then grow more sedate climbers that can be trained within this confined space. 

Alternatively, shrubs that don’t mind being pruned could be judiciously spaced along the fence. The affect will be more contemporary and manageable, which suits our busy lifestyles.

Painted wood 

To add to the contemporary feeling of the garden, the wood used in the raised beds will be painted. There are so many interesting exterior paints and colours available these days that this is a satisfying way of adding year round colour to a garden. The painted wood theme will be followed through on wooden obelisks that will be used to add height to this small garden. However as in most things in design be careful not to go overboard with painting or it will distract from the design. Simplicity is the key to a contemporary garden.  But to give a nod towards the cottage garden look a muted colour will be used rather than anything bright and bold.

Large pots

We are also going to use pots in the garden. Here again the feeling will be more contemporary as just a few large pots will be placed strategically around the garden.  This is in contrast to a cottage garden where lots of little pots would be huddled together. The style of the pots will be simple and geometric to complement the geometric shapes in the garden and will probably be modern in material and design. The maintenance of large pots is also much easier as they don’t need quite so much watering and feeding as lots of little pots. 

Paving

To create the contemporary feeling a more modern paving material will be used. To contrast with the muted painted timber, it could be interesting to use a grey coloured paving material such as slate, York stone or the equivalent, rather than a sandstone coloured paving that is often used in cottage gardens. This will be laid in a random pattern to give the cottage garden feel, with setts to break up different sections of the garden. 

As drainage is a problem in this garden, gravel will also be used. Rather than the small sized pea shingle, larger grey coloured chippings will be used for the paths around the raised beds.  This will enhance the cottage garden feel to this section of the garden. 

A winning combination

The secret to creating a contemporary cottage garden is therefore to ensure there is a strong design underpinning the planting.  This makes it easier to see what needs to go where and provides the foundation on which to build the garden. Then within these defined areas the planting can be allowed to flourish in a relaxed way, as long as it stays within the boundaries established by the design. The garden then benefits from all the positive attributes associated with a cottage garden, e.g. scent, muted colours and attractiveness to wildlife,  while offering the positive attributes of a contemporary garden e.g more manageable and less labour intensive. In my opinion that is a winning combination in this modern age.

Article by Debby Lockey Garden Design

10 Reasons why employing a garden designer might save you money

It really has felt like spring recently. Despite the odd chance of frost at night and the still abundant showers, the days are getting longer, plants are shooting and we’ve had some welcoming warm weather which encourages us to get out into the garden. 

If you have made it into your garden and were really unhappy with what you saw, now is the time to do something about it.  At this time of the year it is possible to see how the space is being used in the garden. Many perennial plants can be moved without too much stress. Lawns can be seeded and the weather is better suited to large landscaping projects.

But if you feel overwhelmed and don’t know where to start to make the changes, chances are you need a garden designer to come in and look at your garden from a professional point of view.

You may think that hiring a garden designer is an expensive option, preferring instead to just get a builder in for the hard landscaping.  After which you may consider getting a designer in for advice on the plants. This approach has its attractions but there are also drawbacks.

Here are a few thoughts about why considering a trained garden designer might be a good idea:

• Builders are there to build a feature, not to try and understand what you want from your garden. A qualified designer spends time talking to clients to get a true understanding of what they want from their garden. A designer endeavours, through diagrams and drawings, to translate their garden wishes into a space they will enjoy.
• A competent designer will undertake a site survey analysis so the garden not only reflects the client’s wants, but also sits comfortably in its environment.
• A designer has a strong sense of unity and harmony, seeing the garden as a whole, rather than piecemeal, so all the different elements in the garden are drawn together to give the entire garden its unique identity.
• Experience counts for a lot. An experienced designer can advise you on the style and materials needed to help create your garden.
• Designers have the creativity to think of solutions to problems that builders may not consider.
• Constantly working with different types of spaces means a designer can envisage what will work well within the confines of a garden.
• An experienced designer will have worked with the same contractors for years and will ensure they too have the understanding and sympathy required to put into practice conceptual designs.
• A holistic approach to designing gardens means that while the hard landscaping is being considered, consideration is also being given to which plants would work well where, within the chosen style of the garden, and environmental constraints. Again this all adds to the feeling of unity and harmony that a well designed garden produces.
• If done properly, a well designed garden adds value to your property.

Any building work in a garden is a long term investment. Getting a designer in at the beginning of a project can help you avoid costly mistakes which in the long term can help you save money.  
 
Throughout the design process and during the implementation of the the design, further consultations with the client should ensure they get the garden that fulfils their dreams.

So if you feel you want some changes to your garden, think about getting a professionally trained garden designer in before you start building.  You may find it will be more cost effective in the long term.

For more information contact Debby Lockey Garden Design

Fairweathers’s Garden Centre Initiative for Spring

Let’s reduce plastic bag usage and support ‘Love the Forest’ at the same time!

Since October 5th 2015 customers at all large UK shops have been charged 5p for each single-use carrier bag they use during their shopping trip as part of a new Government scheme.

Fairweather’s Garden Centre in Beaulieu is now offering customers re-usable jute bags, charging 5p for single use bags, and donating the proceeds to Love the Forest.

To help customers reduce their plastic bag use, and become accustomed to using them Fairweather’s is offering a limited number of free reusable bags worth £4.99 at the Garden Centre tills during April and May to all customers spending more than £20.

For customers choosing to continue using a plastic bag, the 5p charge will be donated to the New Forest Trust’s ‘Love the Forest’ scheme which raises donations ‘to support the protection and improvement of the unique New Forest landscape, flora & fauna and the traditional forest way of life’.

Owner Patrick Fairweather says: “Even though we sell plants that improve our environment, it’s incredibly important we do our bit to reduce waste. We hope our customers will take up our reusable bag offer to minimise the environmental impact of plastic in the Forest.

“Supporting ‘Love the Forest’ will help ensure that the Forest is maintained for generations to come and I would encourage other New Forest businesses to voluntarily support this initiative which will reduce waste and litter and raise valuable funds for the wonderful place we live in.”

New Forest Trust Chairman William Ziegler added, “As a charity we are always seeking new ways for both the public and local businesses to support us, and think Patrick Fairweather’s innovation is a brilliant idea. It works on so many levels apart from just supporting us, the Trust, and I would very much hope that other businesses within the forest recognise this and consider joining the scheme as well.

Any monies raised will go towards supporting the work of the Trust which ranges from supporting Animal safety initiatives & educational projects to working towards providing affordable housing for young commoners.”

Fairweather’s Garden Centre is based in Beaulieu Village and includes Steff’s Kitchen and Patrick’s Patch, a productive educational garden open to the public.

Fairweather’s recycle all their Cardboard, Glass, Green waste, Food waste and Grease.

More than 60% of their light fittings have been converted to low energy LED bulbs.

Fairweather’s produce more than 1 million plants per annum!  Visit Fairweather’s for all your garden needs, click the link below:

Fairweather's Garden Centre Beaulieu

Do you like the colour yellow in your garden?

Yellow in your garden for spring, by Debby Lockey garden designer

Often when I am talking to clients about which colours they would like in their garden I usually get a standard reaction to the colour yellow.  ‘No yellow or orange please, I don’t like those colours’.  But if I quiz them further I usually find that they do like yellow flowers in the spring, despite their apparent dislike of yellow.  So why do we all like yellow so much in a spring garden?

The meaning of the word yellow. 

Yellow comes from the Indo–European word ghelwo meaning related to gold.  After winter, I think this golden brightness is why people actually like yellow in spring.  It is a wonderful contrast to the grey days of winter and the brown of decaying leaves. Yellow seems like a splash of sunlight. Who hasn’t come across a group of yellow aconites, winter jasmine, or primroses and felt a smile forming? Yellow is the colour that your eye sees more readily than any other colour and subsequently your eye really does feel as if it has been bathed in gold.

Spring yellow

Another reason spring yellow is appreciated is it has a clearer, purer hue than the hotter yellows associated with autumn.  On the colour wheel used by artists this clear yellow colour lies between the orange and harsher yellows on one side, and the yellowish greens to darker greens on the other side. Overall it is a calm colour.

All yellow planting scheme

Because of the high impact yellow has on our eyes, it is quite difficult to create an all yellow planting scheme.  Lots of thought has to be given to the texture, shape and form of the plants so each can be distinguished by the eye; otherwise the result could seem like an amorphous mass.  It is probably easier and more effective to use one type of yellow flower en masse.  Think of the impression lots of daffodils planted in the grass had on Wordsworth.  Here the contrast of the green grass set off the shape of the yellow trumpets of the daffodils. 

The daffodils he saw were Pseudo narcissus, our native daffodils which spread if left alone to do their thing.   They grow to between 9-12 inches tall and flower in March.  As they tolerate some shade they can also be planted between the roots of trees, and along the base of walls and native hedges. But any daffodils can be used.

Yellow is also a great colour to use to add a sense of surprise to the garden.  Plant them so that when you go around a corner they will metaphorically jump out at you.  Or use them next to seats, pots or statues so your eye is drawn to that particular focal point. 

The colour wheel

I mentioned earlier the colour wheel used by artists.   This is a wheel created by stretching the three primary colours, red, blue and yellow into a circle.  Between these primary colours, are the secondary colours of orange, green and violet.  The gradation of colours is then represented by subdividing the colours even further.  The simplest way to use the colour wheel in relation to planting is to either use colours that are harmonious i.e. colours that are next to one another on the colour wheel and so share a pigment;  alternatively, you can use colours that complement one another.  These are colours that are opposite one another on the colour wheel and so don’t share a pigment.

Harmonious colour planting schemes using yellow

As yellow falls between orange and green on the colour wheel, a harmonious planting scheme would consist of a clear yellow spring flower with either plants of a darker yellow or orange with lime green plants.  Such a combination could be achieved on the edge of a woodland area by planting golden yellow Crocus chrysanthus var. fuscotinctus in drifts in a sunny position. These flower from February to March.   In the more shaded area plant soft yellow Primula vulgari;  plants that have been in flower this year since the end of January, with Helleborus x hybridus Harvington double lime green, which, as the name suggests, has lime green flowers from February to April.

Complementary planting scheme 

If you want a planting scheme that is more colourful choose colours that are opposite one another on the colour wheel.  For soft yellow this is violet.  A complementary planting scheme for a meadow setting could be Narcissus obvallaris planted with the purple flowering Fritillaria meleagris. and the blue flowering Camassia.  A more woodland planting scheme could be Primula vulgaris with Brunnera macrophylla and purple flowering hellebores.  While a bee friendly combination could be Mahonia x media  ‘Charity’, with Primula vulgaris and the more shade tolerant Crocus tommasiniamus.

Whatever your planting combination, do enjoy planting yellow flowers for spring.  They will provide that little splash of sunshine to contrast with those rather grey overcast days that are so typical of the start of spring in Britain.

If you'd like to talk about plans for your own garden with Debby, click the link below for contact details.

Debby Lockey Garden Design

Growing sweet peas, Lathyrus odoratus, for summer fragrance

Gardening blog by Debby Lockey Garden Design

When to plant your seeds

We are already into March and I’ve realised that I haven’t sown my sweet peas.  I usually try to sow the seeds during the winter months as I feel these cold tough conditions produce a more robust healthy plant. However it is not too late. This article will guide you through the process of growing your own sweet peas from seed. 

Sweet peas can be sown undercover in cold greenhouses or cold frames from mid October to March, but if you find you have missed this window of opportunity the seeds can be grown directly into the ground from April onwards.  If you are planning to do this be aware that mice love to eat them.  One way to deter these little creatures is to soak the seeds in paraffin before planting them as this makes them unpalatable to mice (the same applies to edible pea seeds grown in the vegetable garden).  Alternatively you can use mouse traps.

Seed germination

There are several suggestions to help you get your sweet peas to germinate.  Putting the seeds in the freezer overnight, or nicking the seed coat on the opposite side to the eye of the seed (the small round scar on the seed) with a penknife before planting is supposed to help.  The former makes the seeds think winter has been and gone so it’s time to germinate, while the latter allows water into the seed, and so encourages germination.  Due to lack of time or inclination, I don’t do either of the above, but I do soak them overnight, as this is supposed to encourage the seed embryo to swell and put out roots and shoots.   Generally I have good results doing this, but remember not to soak them for too long as they will rot.

Which pots to grow them in

Again there are those who say that the seeds should be planted into loo rolls or containers made from rolled up newspaper.  The thinking behind this is that sweet peas like long root runs so using deep pots will allow encourage this. I have tried both these methods but I actually found that the paper/ cardboard didn’t rot down, consequently the roots didn’t spread out and become strong, so the plants were rather spindly.   I now prefer to sow 3 seeds into ordinary pots 3 inches across the top, using seeding compost.  The pots can be plastic, pottery or metal; it doesn’t seem to make much difference. Push the seeds down into the compost so they are about a ½ an inch to an inch below the surface.  Cover with more compost.

Germination period

The seeds can take between 10 – 28 days to germinate. Once the shoots begin to appear I like to keep an eye on them and turn the pots if it looks as if the plants are leaning too far towards the light.

Pinching out

Because I have left planting till quite late I will probably have to pinch out the top shoots.  This practice of removing the top 2 leaves of the seedlings once 3-4 pairs of leaves have appeared, is recommended as it encourages strong, bushy side shoots which is where the flowers will grow.   If I had sown my seeds in autumn, the frost would have naturally killed this top shoot off so I wouldn’t have needed to do this job.

Suitable site for growing your sweet peas

I’ll keep the sweet pea shoots in their pots, under glass until the frost has passed and the soil has begun to warm up.  During this time I’ll choose a sunny site for the sweet peas and prepare the soil so it will be ready for when the shoots need to be planted out.  My soil has quite a high clay content so I’ll put in some well rotted manure and home made compost to ensure drainage is good and there is food available for these hungry plants. If you have sandy soil put some torn up newspaper at the bottom of a trench to help retain the moisture, then add the manure.   As sweet peas need support I’ll also put an obelisk in position.

Planting out

Before planting the shoots out they have to be hardened off. This is simply taking them out of the cloches during the day but covering them at night.  Do this for around 2 – 3 weeks so the plants can get used to cooler temperatures, the movement of air around them and lower humidity.  This can be started around April / May time depending on the spring we have. You don’t want them to be caught out by a late frost which could kill them.

Aftercare

Sweet peas do need care once they have been planted out.  If you are gardening on poor soil feed them with a general fertilizer every 2 weeks such as a potash rich tomato feed.  Also keep water them when the weather is dry otherwise they won’t flower as well.  Water in the morning so the leaves don’t get scorched and the plant doesn’t succumb to bud drop.

Keep tying the shoots in as they grow.  If you don’t they have a tendency to flop, with the result that the flower stems are short and curly rather than long and straight.

Once the plant starts to flower it is important that you pick them on a daily basis, otherwise the energy of the plant goes into producing seeds rather than more flowers.  Eventually a point will be reached where the flower stalks will get shorter and you know that the plant is coming to the end of its life.

Flower arrangements

But up until that point you’ll have an abundance of flowers to fill your house with scent.  They can be put in a vase on their own or added to cornflowers and roses for a relaxed, traditional cottage garden arrangement.  If you are getting married this year think about having them in your bouquet.  Local florist Finola Shaw www.belleandblossom.net finds she has lot of requests for fresh, local handpicked flowers in her wedding bouquets.  

Good luck.  I believe a little bit of time and effort now will really pay off in the summer months when you are rewarded with handfuls of sweet peas!

For more gardening information and advice, contact Debby Lockey Garden Design. 

Making the most of the sunlight for your vegetables

Winter jobs for the garden

With the weather being so wet I have been unable to get out into my own or my clients’ gardens for weeks. I find this both frustrating and depressing. Frustrating because this mild winter weather has meant that the weeds are still growing so I’m concerned about what I will find. And depressing because I don’t like grey wet weather.

Still it has allowed me space to think about what jobs need to be done in the garden. I know this is the time of year when you are supposed to be cleaning your greenhouse, pots and tools. But I can’t get excited about that as in my opinion it’s just more housework, and I would rather be doing something different. So instead I am thinking about my allotment, which I consider much more interesting.

Planning and designing your vegetable plot

One of my clients has asked me to design a vegetable plot for her garden. Plus I am helping a friend out with her allotment, so there is a lot to plan.

I’ve had 3 allotments in my lifetime so I am well aware of the need to get the soil right before planting, the importance of crop rotation and the benefits and enjoyment of companion planting, but I realise that I have never really considered the position of crop rows in relation to the sun.

Planning vegetable rows to make the most of sunlight

The paths in our allotment run north - south so I automatically created raised beds that came 90 degrees off this path.

This resulted in the beds, and rows running from east to west. This is fine for me getting to the rows/beds, but it does mean that only the ends of the beds receive the morning and afternoon sun, with the rest of the plants in the rows being partially shaded by each other.

The only time the plants do get an equal amount of sun is midday. This is fine for plants such as tomatoes and peppers, but for other vegetables, for example lettuce or spinach, they quickly fry or bolt in that heat. What you should be aiming for is an orientation that will give your vegetables a minimum of 6 hours of full sunlight. Ideally they would like 6-12 hours.   Anything less will usually result in lots of leaf but very little veg.

Orientation:  north to south

I am therefore going to plan the rows so they run north to south. That way the plants will have maximum exposure to the day’s sunlight. And as a double precaution the plants will be well spaced out within the rows so they themselves will not cast too much shade on each other.

Orientation:  east to west

The  time I would consider planting vegetables in rows that run east to west is early in the year, when the plants would appreciate having the heat from the midday sun. If the plants are growing under a cloche the trapped warm air could help them survive a cold snap.

Shade cast by other vegetable plants

Another consideration with regards to shade is the impact taller plants have on other crops.

In my last plot we built an asparagus bed. We placed it in the middle of the plot so it acted as a break between 2 blocks of rotational cropping. So on either side of the asparagus bed I had four beds devoted to

1. legumes

2. potatoes

3 roots

4. brassicas.

This seemed like a good idea at the time as it kept apart the two areas devoted to rotational cropping so there was less confusion. However I hadn’t realised just how tall asparagus grows and consequentially how much shade it casts. To rectify this problem, in the new plot I will put the asparagus bed at the north end of the plot so the shade will be cast onto a shed, rather than other plants. I’ll also think about where I want to put other permanent crops such as raspberries and artichokes so again they don’t cast too much shade onto other crops.

The final consideration when I’m planning the plots will be where to put the seating area. There always comes that point in the day when your back won’t let you do any more work and it’s time to relax. I personally like to have a west facing aspect for my seat so I can sit with the evening sun on my face while I contemplate all the work I’ve done and muse about further jobs. Planting a few sweet peas and lavender close to the bench helps to enhance that feeling of well being so your allotment becomes a place of enjoyment as well as work.  

Article by Debby Lockey New Forest garden designer

January 2016

Autumn colours in your Garden

By Debby Lockey, local Garden Designer and lymington.com’s gardening blog writer

Like most people who work outside, I feel that autumn is well and truly here. The nights are rapidly closing in, there is a heavy dew on the ground come morning and the sun’s rays are lower making the colours in the garden richer and quite spectacular.

The wet summer has meant that growth this year has been lush and unchecked. So hopefully these conditions plus the Indian Summer we had before all the rain came, will result in a glorious display of leaf colour.

Gorgeous colours of the Acer

In my own garden the Acer palmatum ‘Bloodgood’ has already turned from a rather mucky ruddy colour to a fantastic red. If you want to grow other shrubs that give a good autumn show, try planting enkianthus or fothergilla, both or which like an acid soil so should be happy in and around the New Forest.

Trees with berries also come into their own at this time of the year. For smaller gardens try growing a crab apple – there are many to choose from - or a sorbus. Sorbus vilmorinii is an elegant choice with feathery lime green leaves and white fruit that the birds don’t seem to want so they stay on the tree for longer.

For something slightly different try Callicarpa bodinieri var giraldii. This shrub produces violet berries in autumn. My daughter used to collect these when she was little as they look like small beads. Don’t worry they are not poisonous, but they are too bitter to be edible.

Choose a site which makes the most of the autumn light

Before planting these shrubs, try to choose a site that will allow either the low morning or evening sun to shine through the leaves. The result is a startling blaze of colour akin to light shining through a stained glass window.

From a designer’s point of view I love autumn, as now you have the chance to assess your plants. Most haven’t died back completely so you can see whether they work for their site. Are they too big for the space, does their colour and shape complement the border, and have they thrived in that position? If you have any doubts about any of these criteria now is the time to get in and start moving the plants around.

Evergreens can be moved as the soil is still warm, and there is usually more moisture in the soil than during summer. The plants are therefore happy to send out lots of new roots. This will enable them to become well established so they can withstand a cold winter. However do bear in mind that during the move some of the plant’s roots will have been severed. You will therefore need to water them during any dry spells.

Perennials can also be divided and rejuvenated in autumn. Do this to any plants that haven’t flowered particularly well this year or have outgrown their space. This can be done by either digging up the plant, then inserting two forks back to back to prise the root ball apart, or by cutting the root ball up with a knife. Discard the old central plant and use the younger plants on the outside of the clump. As a designer I like to repeat plant in a flower border, as this provides rhythm and a feeling of unity in the garden. So feel free to move those divided clumps around your garden.

Plant your spring bulbs now

Also, don’t forget this is the time to start planting your spring bulbs, but leave planting tulip bulbs until November when it is colder. If planted too early the warmer conditions can encourage fire blight in the tulips; a fungal disease caused by Botrytis tulipae. If you choose the right bulbs you really can have flowers all year round. Wonderful.

That’s it for now, happy autumn gardening, Debby

Contact Debby 

Fairweather's: haven of all things gardens and gardening!

Fairweather's Garden Centre is a wonderful haven of plants, garden centre and gorgeous items for the garden, located in the heart of Beaulieu, a peaceful, picturesque village in the heart of the New Forest National Park, Hampshire and just a few miles easy and scenic drive across the forest from Lymington.

Fairweather's is a family owned and run business - and it shows. Patrick Fairweather's passion and expertise is at the heart of the business and is reflected by every single member of his courteous and knowedgeable team - you'll find someone you can ask about literally anything to do with growing all kinds of vegetables, shrubs, plants... for outdoors and in. Inspiration and advice is available literally wherever you walk, about anything you might need to know.

A wealth of advice available...

There is also a really useful section on the Fairweather's website at www.fairweathers.net, with advice fact sheets about growing fruit, growing vegetables, lawns, pest & disease control, outdoor plant advice, seeds & bulbs, and plants for specific purposes.

Fairweather’s historic buildings offer a welcoming and relaxing atmosphere for browsing and choosing all manner of equipment and items for your garden or conservatory, from comfortable quality furniture to clever and unusual garden related gifts and greetings cards.

A wide range of plants to view and buy...

We pride ourselves on the wide range of plants that we provide, backed up by expert advice and a five year guarantee on all hardy plants sold. We have particular expertise in Lavender and Agapanthus which along with many of our plants we've grown ourselves in Beaulieu.

Agapanthus at Beaulieu

The Agapanthus plant is an elegant and exotic species, but the good news is it's well suited to UK soil and climate conditions - especially here in Beaulieu, Hampshire!

Fairweather’s are in fact the largest growers of Agapanthus in the UK. We currently have a collection of over 300 cultivars awaiting approval by the Plant Heritage as a National Collection.

We supply wholesale growers both locally and further afield, mail order companies and specialist producers. We're delighted to be able to share this quality plant with our customers directly too - whether at the garden centre or now, also, via our online shop.

Click here for "How to Grow Agapanthus Plants"

Lavender at Beaulieu

Lavenders are perhaps the most loved plants in our gardens. These aromatic, evergreen shrubs have soft grey-green foliage and long-stemmed spikes of fragrant flowers, which appear from spring to late summer depending on the variety you choose.

The flowers generally have a very high oil and nectar content which bees love, so they are a great addition if you want to attract wildlife to your garden.

They form a billowy edging as they tumble out over pathways and lawns where their delicious scent will escape as you brush past them. They can tolerate drought and enjoy sun and well-drained soil.

We have been growing lavender for many years in Beaulieu and we pride ourselves on the quality and beauty of our home grown lavender. Come and see them - or, if it's more convenient for you, you can now also buy from our online shop.

An online garden shop for your convenience...

Recently thanks to popular demand we've set up an online shop where you can buy our specialist range of Agapanthus and Lavender, and also Fairweather's Gift Vouchers for an easy yet still thoughtful gift for a gardener friend or relative (and who doesn't need something for their garden or conservatory!). Whether you're based locally but need something in a hurry, or you're not close enough to visit us, try our online shop and we'll welcome you there instead.

An educational living garden patch...

Patrick’s Patch is an inspiring, educational and productive garden that we have built adjacent to the Garden Centre in Beaulieu High Street – it’s free to enter but any donations given go to the NGS (National Gardens Scheme). Year round we grow a wide range of vegetables, fruit, herbs and cut flowers that are used in our Café – Steff’s Kitchen. Free courses are held regularly and dates can be found on our website.

Relaxing garden cafe with delicious home cooked food...

Steff’s Kitchen offers home cooked food and a warm welcome. Enjoy a cup of coffee & cake, a hearty breakfast or a light lunch - it’s a great place to relax and soak up the atmosphere of Beaulieu Village.

The whole team at Fairweather’s Garden Centre look forward to making you feel welcome in Beaulieu soon!

Fairweather’s Garden Centre
High Street
Beaulieu
Hampshire
SO42 7YB

Phone: 01590 612307
Email: This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
Website: www.fairweathers.co.uk